
Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Cô Hong’s Killer Late-Night Cơm Tấm
In the 16 years she’s spent selling cơm tấm on the District 4 side of the Calmette Bridge, cô Hong has seen some things.
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Dana Filek-Gibson is a writer, editor, and communicator based in Brooklyn, New York. She previously lived in Saigon and misses Vietnam — and cà phê sữa đá — every single day.

Arts & Culture
Viet Max is a man of many talents. At 37, the Hanoi native has managed to parlay his eclectic skill set into a breakdancing career, a street fashion brand and, more recently, work as a feature film director.

Society
The gate to Masjid Niamatul Islamiyah does its best to hide the shaded, green garden behind it from street view. On the outside, you’re more likely to notice the motorbike repair shop next door spilling out onto the sidewalk than the high, faded gray-green metal gate in the background. Peek over the fence and the courtyard doesn’t seem like anything special, either, until you begin to notice the pastel-hued headstones floating between plants at the back of the complex and the green-and-white lettering above its modest prayer hall on the left.

Travel
In Da Lat, the cozy Nha Gio Countryside guesthouse opens its doors to travelers who are willing to plant a tree as payment for a night’s stay.

Saigon Hẻm Gems
Any self-respecting Saigoneer has a certain reverence for the art of nhậu .

Travel
On Tuesday, the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism (VNAT) launched its new and improved tourism website in an effort to boost the quality of the country’s tourism information and services.

Heritage
The second he sees me, rolling down the crumbling concrete path on a dented bicycle, Chien perks up and heads in my direction.

Tech
Fresh off a win at the Vietnam Creative Business Cup, Hanoi-based startup DesignBold raked in over US$27,000 in the first three days of its beta phase, a promising sign for the young venture.

Society
Tens of thousands of people recently descended upon Taipei to celebrate Taiwan’s 14 th annual Pride weekend with a renewed hope: as early as next year, the small island nation could become the first in Asia to legalize same-sex marriage.

Arts & Culture
Tewfic El-Sawy’s introduction to Đạo Mẫu , also known as the Mother Goddess religion, began with music.

Eat & Drink
When James Sharman starts talking about the last three weeks, he gets a little wide-eyed. His hands animate each story, hovering above the table. Between sips of coffee, he launches into tales of squid fishing and mountain villages and cooking with middle-aged women in Hoi An. If you didn’t know any better, you’d peg the Englishman for just another traveler passing through Southeast Asia.

Development
For many downtown Saigon residents, it’s hard to remember a time when the Nguyen Hue walking street didn’t exist , despite the fact it’s not even two years old. Such is life in the southern hub: in the blink of an eye, buildings go up or come down, restaurants open, shops close, and what’s a park today could be a train station tomorrow.

Saigon Hẻm Gems
Going to dinner at Au Pagolac is like going to dinner with family. That is, of course, provided your family spans several generations and also serves its meals in crisp, white button-ups and the occasional clip-on bow tie.
![[Video] Mini-Documentary Weaves Visual Portrait of Ta Oi Artisan](https://media.urbanistnetwork.com/saigoneer/article-images/legacy/iEVxj91l.jpg)
Film & TV
As urban Vietnam charges into the future, connecting to the global economy during its modern development, the traditions of rural Vietnam stay alive through a handful of artisans.

Saigon Hẻm Gems
One of the first things Co Suong does when we sit down in the back of her tiny District 3 cafe is bring out the newspaper clippings.

Saigon Hẻm Gems
During a busy Thursday lunch hour, my coworker and I commit a soup drive-by.

Food Culture
While phở , bánh mì and now, occasionally, bún chả hog the spotlight in Vietnamese cuisine, everyone in Vietnam is familiar, to some degree, with bánh xèo . On street corners and in tiny, modest quán , the thin, savory rice flour pancake has earned its place among the pantheon of roadside Vietnamese fare. But as any upstanding street food diner will tell you, its dozens of variations mean that true appreciation of bánh xèo goes beyond the consumption of a single regional style.

Saigon
Hai Thuong Lan Ong is one of the most influential figures in the history of traditional Vietnamese medicine.

Development
On one particularly horrific Monday evening last summer, I wound up in a traffic jam. Bounding over the bridge between District 1 and Phu Nhuan, my jaw dropped as I found a sea of vehicles on the other side.

Saigon Hẻm Gems
Shuffling along in flip-flops and a pair of baggy shorts, Công the Enforcer arrives at our table.

Food Culture
Crickets look a lot different when they’re fried and doused in seasoning.

Travel
In an effort to restore Hoi An’s famed 17 th -century Japanese Bridge, conservation experts plan to dismantle the structure entirely and perform restoration work on its individual pieces before rebuilding the bridge.

Development
Across the street from a colorful, decades-old Hindu temple, motorbikes pour into the parking garage of the newly opened Saigon Center. Spiraling five floors below ground, the downtown shopping mall employs a veritable army of parking attendants and for good reason: at 3pm on a weekday, the place is packed.