Waterfalls, Langur, Oysters and Abandoned Colonial Villas: A Lăng Cô Getaway

What lies between Đà Nẵng and Huế?

These two can’t-miss tourism destinations cater to a wide range of visitors thanks to their many cultural, natural, culinary and entertainment splendors. The roughly 90 kilometers between the two, however, is often considered merely a distance to traverse. Saigoneer discovered, however, that the area, with Lăng Cô as the general center, holds untold splendors that demand a visit.

Cause for Pause on the Ocean Cloud Pass

A mere 48 minutes after we exited Đà Nẵng's airport, we were in the clouds. Praised by international roadsters like Top Gear, the Hải Vân Pass provides stunning views of the city and its iconic bay nearly 500 meters below. You’ll certainly want to get out to snap a few photos, but you should plan to linger for a while to explore and reflect upon its centuries of strategic importance. 

Translating to “ocean cloud pass” in reference to the mist that frequently collects in the crux of the Trường Sơn Mountains, the Hải Vân Pass served as a national border numerous times. It represented the southernmost point of the Hán empire in the first century as well as the divide between the Đại Việt and Champa in the 14th Century. Significant battles were also waged there during the war of resistance against the French. 

Today, the Hải Vân Pass is a peaceful place to stretch one’s legs, take selfies, have some coffee and reflect on distant empires as presented in the reconstructed Hải Vân Gate originally built by Emperor Minh Mạng. Reading the information contained, it’s flabbergasting to imagine how this region could be traversed before piston and coal power, battery and GPS. 

The Hải Vân Pass also offers arguably the best train views in Vietnam. With windows looking out at the countryside, cliffs and coastline, unobstructed by highways or billboards, you can soak in the sheer immensity of the nation’s natural beauty. Moreover, a newly opened Heritage Car operated by Vietnam Railways Corporation on the Reunification Express Line accentuates the scenery with cultural warmth in the compartments. Traditional music and regional specialties like bánh ít transform the trip from simple transportation into a true journey. Designated as HD1/2 and HD3/4, the twice-daily trains are very much worth looking for and planning your travel around. 

The Town that Oysters Built

100 years ago, if anyone spoke of Lăng Cô, it was likely in relation to the Nguyễn dynasty. In 1919, Emperor Khải Định built a summer palace beside the calm bay swaddled between sloping mountains fifty-some kilometers south of the Imperial Palace in Huế. Reflective of a trait that’s been sadly abandoned by today’s world leaders, he admired poetry and expressed his appreciation, for the regions serenity in a poem written on the since-burned down summer palace, that reads in part: “Looking towards the mountain, one sees strange clouds rising from cliffs, like fairies dancing in the mountains; looking down at the water, the clear wind drives the waves like thousands of returning horses.”

Nowadays, if people stop in Lăng Cô, a town of about 12,000 people, it's often to enjoy fresh oysters at reasonable, countryside prices. While it is near the coast, the shellfish’s notoriety is thanks to rather recent ingenuity. A man born and raised in the town explained to us that about a decade ago, a resident noticed an oyster growing in the lagoon on a discarded tire. On a hunch, he proceeded to collect and sink a great number of old motorbike tires. A few years later, he had made a small fortune in oysters and also inspired many of his neighbors to do the same. While the town has since cleaned up the operations, banning the use of polluting trash, the industry has taken hold with more sustainable practices. 

Beyond the oysters, industry in the area is developing rapidly with government support. While driving around, we saw a number of materials factories that take advantage of the Chân Mây Port. There are even groves of trees planted specifically for harvesting to make high-quality paper for export. Amidst the rapid development, some rhythms remain the same, however, particularly before sunrise in the fishing villages. Making a stop to Cảnh Dương fishing village allowed us to observe how hard work can complement a carefree attitude as well as gracious invitations to watch the steady routines of casting nets, cleaning traps and drying fish in the sun.  

Temples, Endangered Primates, and Forgotten Villas

Venturing further north, we abandoned the paltry preoccupations of humanity: the lust for baubles and tawdry, transient praise. The bridge that crossed the reservoir to Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã monastery had washed away years ago, so we reached the Central region’s first place of Buddhist worship via boat. The simple motor’s putt-putt-putt gave way to temple bells as we arrived. Cloaked in serenity and the subtle scent of burning incense Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã is a functional monastery that attracts devotees who follow the Buddha’s teachings as supported by the offerings of people in the area. Free to walk the sprawling grounds and appreciate the peaceful atmosphere, it offers a nice respite on the drive and also a chance to assess the importance of our human actions and motivations. 

Such soul searching makes sight of an endangered species all the more profound. What value is the life of a single human, one of more than eight billion, when compared to a red-shanked douc langur, of which there are estimated to be fewer than 3,000 left in the wild? We were blessed to see an entire family of these incredibly calm primates on the steep road up the mountain in Bạch Mã National Park.

Even if you aren’t lucky enough to spot wildlife that includes red-shanked douc langur, oriental pheasants, and giant earthworms, Bạch Mã, one of Vietnam’s many slept-on national parks, provides a rare opportunity to commune with nature. Enormous trees covered in vines canopy the many paths that slither up and down the mountain. During the dry season, adventurous hikers wearing good shoes can travel along streams that eventually constitute the Perfume River. A series of impressive waterfalls cascade against granite rocks along the walk that occasionally requires hand ropes and leaping across stones. A particularly panoramic outlook reminds city dwellers of the natural grandeur that dwarfs our steel and concrete.

There is, however, beauty in construction within Bạch Mã. In response to the elevation’s cool climate, in the 1930s, the French established a retreat for their colonial officials. A total of 137 villas were built with infrastructure to support the vacation town, including a hospital, post office, market, swimming pool, and tennis courts. We were shocked by the immensity of a location that we’ve never heard of. You can explore many of the crumbling structures whose sturdy build and materials allow them surprising permanence. While having lunch in one particularly well-kept building, you can reflect on the exploitation and colonial abuse required to transport an entire village up the side of a mountain. A clearing at the park’s highest mountain peak provides historical information, including activities in the area during the American War, with an optimistic look towards enduring peace.  

Perhaps lush mountains with temperate air alongside rushing waterfalls with a dollop of historical misery isn’t your aesthetic, though. If you continue traveling north, you’ll reach Rú Chá forest right outside of Huế. We arrived at midday with the sun snarling down with ill intentions and thus didn’t stay too long, the entire time wishing we were those water buffalo wallowing in a mudpond. However, a dawn or dusk visit would be quite enjoyable. Quiet paths through mangroves, a small temple, and an observation tower would all allow one to slow their pace

Two Options to Best Savor the Region

By now, I hope you share our conclusion that the land between Đà Nẵng and Huế deserves your time and attention. But what is the best way? You could surely stop at some of the above locations while driving between the cities, as many do, or even as part of a longer road trip. But such a rushed itinerary would not do the region justice. We were thus quite thankful that our adventuring included a stay at Banyan Tree and Angsana just 20 minutes from Lăng Cô town. 

Angsana (left) and Banyan Tree (right).

Both Angsana, which caters to groups and family vacations, and Banyan Tree, which provides a more exclusive stay, of course, achieve the basics for serving as a homebase for exploration: clean, quiet, and comfortable rooms; pools, beach, and entertainment options; and delicious food that spans regions and atmospheres. The hotels can also arrange transportation, guides, and logistics, as well as forays into Đà Nẵng and Huế, and other sites, including Mỹ Sơn. Most importantly, however, is that they are actively working to preserve the region. Employing and uplifting local populations, they’ve been instrumental in providing financial and rhetorical resources to elevate the people, culture, and nature of the area so it can be cherished and protected. 

It’s difficult to recommend that any traveler completely skip Đà Nẵng and Huế, especially if they’ve never been before. However, I’ll be so bold as to say that if you do plan to travel to one, you must reserve ample time for Lăng Cô. Hike in Bạch Mã, take a few deep breaths at Trúc Lâm Bạch Mã, eat a plate of oysters in town after observing the fisherman at dawn, and then spend a night or three pampering yourself at Banyan Tree or Angsana. Doing so isn’t just a great vacation; it’s proof that sometimes overlooked destinations have the most to offer.