I never imagined there could be more than one way to eat a watermelon. Yet here it was, transformed beyond recognition, via a bold experiment and a deeply personal story, challenging everything I thought I knew about such a simple fruit. Only later did I realize it was part of Sonó’s new tasting menu, “Tales & Tastes.”
The dish — named Mai An Tiêm after the main character in a famous folk tale — begins with watermelon on the grill. Fire draws out flavors we rarely associate with the fruit: smoky, savory, caramelized sweetness. To this, Chef Kiên Phan pairs a chilled cheese sauce, his playful take on gazpacho where vegetables are replaced with cheese. The contrast is striking, hot and cold, sweet and creamy, familiar yet unfamiliar. The classic trio of watermelon, cucumber, and feta is then elevated with lemon gel, finely chopped makrut lime leaves, and crisp prosciutto, creating a perfect balance of textures and tastes.
The inspiration comes from memory. Years ago in Vinh, Kiên once stopped at a roadside stall and tasted sticky rice served with a simple pickle of cucumber and lime leaves. That humble pairing lingered with him, sparking a curiosity to push lime leaves into new territory. Countless trials later, the memory returned in the shape of “Mai An Tiêm.” The dish embodies his philosophy of delivering comforting food rooted in French technique, with a gentle modern twist, and a touch of Vietnam. Something refined yet familiar, inventive yet grounded.
It is also the dish he’s most eager to share. The idea of grilled watermelon alone challenges expectation, asking us to see a familiar fruit differently. For me, Mai An Tiêm is more than a course in a menu. It’s a story of memory and imagination, and a quiet reminder of how extraordinary the ordinary can become.
The Tales & Taste menu which includes the Mai An Tiêm is accompanied by Petey Majik's entertainment show.
